FROM THE EDITOR:
Tips - It's Not About the IRS
by Michael Birchenall

The recent Supreme Court ruling on the responsibilty of the employer regarding the accuracy of tip reporting by the emloyee brings to the forefront another foodservice issue - service. The tax issue is rather straight forward - if you make $500 in tips in one week, the law requires you report $500 and you and your employer each must pay your respective share.

I found myself on this issue on the side of the restaurateur, because it was not about tips - but about the policing and collection requirements placed on the establishment by the IRS. The "eight percent" rule and the credit card tips info given to servers before they file their tip reports all contribute to the notion that underreporting is a right. The law would have to be changed to create that right.

Enough said - how do tips reach the table.

The Recovery
A recent experience in Fair Oaks, Va. took place in a dining room where a casual restaurant turns into a popular lounge in the evening after nine. After having a server start my table, I didn't see him again for 15 minutes, while I sipped my wine. My appetizer arrived and I learned from the new server, the first person had left for the evening.

When I indicated my surprise about the AWOL server along with the lack of taste in the polenta (listed as mashed potatoes), she set off on a mission - to win me back. First, it was the offer of a new side dish. No, I was already full. Well, how about another glass of wine. No, not necessary. How about dessert? She wasn't going to let up. Her mission to win over this guest was clear and she was determined to find success. I went for the dessert.

The molten chocolate cake was excellent. She tried once more to offer another glass of wine. "You know red wine goes well with chocolate," she said. No, thank you. Soon after I received my dessert, she was back to make sure her recommendation had met my approval. It had. She was all smiles.

The whole evening had been made a success through her tireless effort to give good service after a rough start out of her control. I asked her name - Chris Alexander. Thanks for taking care of your customers with a smile. That's what it's all about. Thanks, Chris.

The Sitting Room
Recently I arrived on time for lunch at a small dining room in a local inn. At noon, there was one guest in the parlor and I was ask to wait also. The host told me the maitre d' would come and get me. The other guest's friend arrived and they were seated in the dining room down the hall. I sat there as I was told and waited. At 12:25 p.m. I called the restaurant from the parlor on my cell phone. I asked if I could be seated. A few moments later the host appeared and blamed the maitre d' (also the server). She then took me to my table.

There wasn't much happening in the dining room - six other people were seated at two tables. When I asked for a glass of wine, the server pointed to the open bottle near a table. I said I wasn't interested. What else do you have? He brought me two wet bottles of Virginia whites from a nearby bucket. I chose the Breaux Viognier as he stood there silently waiting. Lunch was fine - except for prices in this 4-diamond establishment. Three courses cost $30 - (one course is $15 and two $22.50). Coffee, wine, tax and tip are all extras. The wine was $8.50 for a Virginia selection that sells for $22 retail. Lunch, tax, one glass of wine, and coffee with tip - $50.

Couldn't I get a smile, a little product knowledge or passion about something from the server. No, not even a goodbye.

The Good
The opening at Restaurant Seven hasn't been the smoothest experience for the staff - with a shift in ownership in its first weeks of opening and the surrounding unsettling turmoil. An early visit was grim - interaction with the staff was difficult to initiate. But, with chef Mina Newman stepping forward and helping to oversee the front and back of the house, the restaurant has seen a service revival - the food has always been good. Last week, I was greeted with a smile and hello at the host area upon entering.

At the bar, Melissa Meltzer was a wonderful restaurant ambassador - bright, knowledgeable and eager to go beyond the expected. Each time I think service will become an underground commodity - disappearing from the foodservice landscape, it comes back to shine in the form of someone's boundless enthusiasm - exceeding my expectations. Thanks, Melissa.

Tips
Each month, FSM will recognize the best ambassadors demonstrating the art of service. Those recognized in TIPS will receive a certification of appreciation for their service effort. Congratulations to our first TIPS recipients - Chris and Melissa. Michael Birchenall, Editor
michael@foodservicemonthly.com

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